Makes: 6 popovers
Oven Temperature and Times: 425°F/220˚C for 15 minutes; 350˚F/175˚C for 40 minutes
I presented my first popover recipe in The Bread Bible over twenty years ago. Since then I have tinkered and tweaked the recipe. My latest version includes adding extra egg whites for crisper ever lighter results. As before, some of the fat is mixed into the flour mixture before adding the liquid, similar to the way of my method of mixing cakes, which coats the flour slightly to prevent too much gluten formation and ensures tenderness. The result is these popovers that can be made with rendered beef suet (see Baking Gems), goose fat, or clarified butter. They are my idea of the perfect popovers: tender, crisp, and flavorful, with just the right amount of soft, almost custardy, slightly airy interiors. They can even be made two days ahead and reheated to a perfect consistency.
The secret to their exceptional lightness and crispiness is the addition of extra egg whites. But this gives it a tendency to stick at the bottoms. My solution is to cut 6 little rounds of parchment or non-stick aluminum foil, and set them on the bottom of the pan’s cups before adding the beef fat. It works like a charm!
Plan Ahead: The batter will need to rest for at least 1 hour, up to 48 hours ahead. For the best flavor and texture let the batter rest for 24 hours. Always allow it to come to room temperature for an hour.
Special Equipment: 6 cup popover pan, preferably Nordicware cast aluminum (7/8 cup capacity/cup), Chicago Mettalic or Bellemain dark metal (3/4 cup capacity/cup), non-stick pans (see Baking Gems) with cup bottoms lined with parchment or aluminum foil discs.
Preheat the Oven
* At least 45 minutes to 1 hour before baking, set an oven rack in the bottom third of the oven. Set another oven rack on the lowest rack position. Place a foil pan or half sheet pan, covered with foil, on the rack to catch any bubbling over fat.
* Set the oven to 425°F/220˚C.
Prepare the Popover Panand Fill the Pan’s Cups
4) Soften or melt the remaining fat. Pour or spoon the fat in equal amounts (1 teaspoon) into the popover pan’s cups. Coat the cups lightly with Baker’s Joy. Brush out any excess.
5) Place the pan in the oven 3 to 4 minutes before baking and heat it until the fat is hot but not beginning to smoke.
6) Whisk the room temperature batter lightly, reaching to the bottom to redistribute any little pellets of fat.
7) Remove the pan from the oven. Pour the batter on top of the hot fat about one-half to two-thirds full (see Baking Gems).
Bake the Popovers
8) Bake at 425°F/220˚C for 15 minutes.
9) Lower the heat to 350°F/175˚C. Continue baking for 30 minutes.
10) Quickly make a small slit in the sides of each popover to release steam and allow it to dry more inside.
11) Continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes, or until deep golden brown.
Serve the Popovers
12) Place the popover pan on a wire rack. Lift out the popovers, peel off the parchment if it has stuck to the bottoms, and serve at once or set on a rack in a warm oven until ready to serve.
Baking Gems
* Nordicware popover pan is the most nonstick and gives the most even bottoms. The cups are slightly larger so fill them only 1/2 full.
* We and you may have noticed that a carton of standard Grade A large eggs will have many eggs with smaller yolks than several years ago. Also, eggs on average can vary in weight. This has resulted in yolks ranging from as low as 12 grams to 19 grams, from the standard 18.6 grams of yolk per egg and thus an increase in white per whole egg. In The Baking Bible, Rose’s Baking Basics, Rose’s Ice Cream Bliss, and our upcoming The Cookie Bible, we now give a range for egg yolks that may be required for an egg yolk based recipe.
* Rendering Beef Fat from Suet: I love using the aged beef fat trimmings from Piccinini Bros, NYC, available on line. Chop the suet fine or process until well broken up. Place in a small heavy pan. Cook over the lowest possible heat (just barely simmering, to avoid over-browning) for about 2 hours or until little browned bits remain in the pan. (Browning intensifies the beefy flavor) Strain into a jar.
* Unsalted clarified butter can be substituted for the beef or goose fat.
* We recommend Baker’s Joy baking spray with flour when a recipe calls for coating a baking surface with a combination of oil/melted butter and flour. Other baking sprays with flour we have tried give the baked items an off taste and may not release well.
* These popovers, when baked in the Chicago Metallic will generally have a slightly wrinkled or narrower footed bottom but have a beautifully ballooned top. If you prefer more even bottoms and slightly smaller popovers, only fill the popover pan cups one-half full.
Variations:
Popover Sandwiches: Slit warm popovers lengthwise and fill with heated or room temperature, thinly sliced meats. Serve plain or with condiments such as mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, ranch dressing on the side.
Breakfast Butter Popovers: Slit warm popovers lengthwise and fill with scrambled eggs or butter and jam.
